Day8: Everest Base Camp

Day 8  - Oct 7, Tue

Round trip Gorak Shep-Everest Base Camp (17,600'/5,365m)

Approx  3.5 hrs 4.5 miles 

So here we are - after 8 days on the trail, we are only one grueling hike away from our lofty, ambitious goal! We left the lodge after lunch and the best thing was that this time we did not have to carry our backpacks! Since the porters did not have to carry our night bags we requested one of them to carry one backpack and all of us put our stuff in that. As we set off Dunbar asked each of us how we were feeling to take stock of the situation. Shree was feeling pretty low. We started off on a flat field just at the base of Kala Pathar. It seems it was a lake at one time. The mountains were ever closer and even more stupefying! Walking from Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp was for me the scariest and hardest part of the trek. There was no vegetation whatsoever. The trail actually reminded me of the unforgiving path Frodo and Sam took to Mordor in "Lord of the Rings". Once again I was acutely made aware of the fact that this trip is definitely not for the faint hearted!

The mountains were in their glory with the sun shining behind them. As we progressed we witnessed incredibly captivating views of the whole Everest range: Pumori taller and more imposing than ever, Lingtren with its neatly raked, ridged sides, and of course the most venerable Mt Everest! 


They seemed to be at touching distance now. You felt you just had to reach out to feel the softness of the snow on Everest. It was bitterly cold and seemed to be getting even colder as the afternoon sun dropped lower. We had the Khumbu glacier to our right all along the way. It was covered by dirt and rocks. We were actually walking on the glacier. The debris cover is brought down by avalanches and exposed at the surface via melting. The khumbu Icefall apparently pushes down any big rocks that block its way. This causes avalanches and the debris accumulates on the glacier at the lower elevations.

                                                                                        

Kathmandu-based mountain research institute, ICIMOD, reports that the Khumbu Glacier is retreating at an average of 20mThe Kathmandu-based mountain research institute, ICIMOD, reports that the Khumbu Glacier is retreating at an average of 20m per year. The length of the glacier has shrunk from 12,040m in the 1960s to 11,100m in 2001. This 1 kilometer retreat has been consistently between 15 and 20 m per year during this interval. Everest Base Camp has actually dropped from 5,320m to 5,280m since Hillary and Tenzing first set up camp there more than fifty years ago. This 40 m of thinning at the base camp has occurred over this 55 year period. (Source - https://glacierchange.wordpress.com/2009/12/09/khumbu-glacier-decay/)

Around 2/3 of the way up Dunbar decided that since some clouds were rolling in and we needed to allocate enough time for our safe journey back to Gorak Shep, we would divide into 2 groups. Dunbar would lead the group in front and they would attempt to speed up a bit so as to make it to EBC on time. It was decided that the 2nd group with Revant should hike up till 1:30 pm and then start heading back from whatever point they were at. That meant that if Shachin and I wanted to be with the 1st group we would need to walk faster to keep pace with them. We determined we would even though we were quite exhausted. Beyond this point it was in equal part a mental and physical challenge. We were literally willing ourselves to take one heavy step after another. The trail was treacherous and I had tripped many times when I had not been concentrating. We had to watch the ground for rocks and constantly look down and I felt I was missing out on soaking in some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. 
Shree also got a beautiful picture of Changtse and Lho La Pass.

We could now see the Everest up close and the Khumbu Icefall to its left. We passed small exquisite ice lakes with crystal green water surrounded by ice walls from the glacier. The final trail to Base Camp was an agonizing scramble over more rubble.

We finally arrived at Everest Base Camp and the feeling of thrill was overwhelming!! It was indescribably beautiful! It was so truly exhilarating! For me, it seems like the beauty of this place washes through my entire being, leaving an almost imperceptible mark.

Dunbar had gotten a Nariyal/Coconut that he cracked open and performed a little Puja. Nariyal never tasted better! Urmi sang a song. It was just BEAUTIFUL and poignant! We had made it! We unfurled the Banner that Revant had carried all the way up and took some pictures to mark this momentous occasion!

 We had marvelous views of the Khumbu Ice Falls. This is the most difficult part of the Everest Expedition and I had read somewhere that the major number of deaths occur in this region. 

 At the bottom of the falls are lots of snow mounds and snow formations that look like snow caps. They have been dumped there from the many avalanches. Shachin took some close-ups of the Khumbu icefall with its dangerous crevasses and also of the snow mounds. 
The magnificence of the scenery could only be felt. I felt really lucky to experience the sublime beauty, the grandeur and the breathtakingly stunning panorama! Sanjiv took a closeup of the peak of Everest. We could not see any climbers cause the season for climbing was already over.

We then headed back, thrilled to have achieved our goal! When we got to the flat field just before we reached the Tea House, Dunbar made us all walk backwards saying it was a tradition. We complied and I was being very helpful by making tracks with my hiking poles that the girls Urmi and Anisha were following.

But suddenly I backed into a mound of dirt and had a big fall. Everyone had a good laugh and Sanjiv also got it on video! It became a big topic of amusement and it was a nice hilarious note to end the memorable day!

At the lodge we met up with Shree and Sukriti who had also had a fantastic trek. It was all supremely exciting. 

We then realized that Shree had taken a turn for the worse and was not feeling well at all. She decided she would have to call for the Rescue Helicopter to get back. She did not feel fit enough for the long hike back. Dunbar got to work making the arrangements with Babu back at Unique Path HQ and they made the arrangements with the insurance company for the evacuation the next morning. We were all sad about losing their company but it was the right decision for her.We had a quiet but satisfying evening glowing with a sense of achievement we truly had never felt before. Since this was our last evening as a group we took lots of pictures. Another exciting thing that happened was meeting this Nepalese mountaineer who had climbed both Everest and K2! Dawa Yangzun Sherpa was such an inspiring lady and we felt so fortunate to meet her and talk to her!

We went to bed at the end of a Fantastic day of Great accomplishment - Everest Base Camp - how many people experience that in their lifetimes?

NEXT - Day 9 - Oct 8, Wed - Gorak Shep (16,865'/5,140m) to Kalapathar(5545m/18192ft)